The city is crazy in many ways. The first fact is that everyone on the road acts like a caffiene-addict schizophrenic. Black smoke billows out of rickety matatus, and people transport anything up to and including sofas on the back of a motorbike. Nature is everywhere, underfoot, overhead; ibis, gangly storks, pretty purple trees, forested skylines, all meandering inbetween concrete and roadways. The beer is great.

People are friendly, I thought there was a real deep goodness and positivity. Counterintuitively, you drive past swathes of the city that are shanty town – wooden lean-tos covered with plastic and corrugated iron. You have a real laugh – and also cause for a sad pause, too: nightmare stories about children unable to scrape together pitifully small school fees, rampant poverty and rampaging corruption. Everyone wants to get on, do well, get along. I hope that they do.

November 2015